Tag: fiber

Reverse Systems

They express how much a certain thread weight measures when compared to other threads across the scale. They are called inverse just because the larger the number, the thinner the thread which seems illogical at first but is in fact simpler once you understand more of the finer points of spinning.

Also known as reverse or direct systems, it applies to fibers of limited length such as cotton, wool, etc.

The number is both higher and smaller is the diameter, in this weight system is fixed and the length is variable.

The formula is:

  • N'K L/ P
    • No. Number
    • Constant Ko
    • L. Length
    • P. Weight

Now we will look at how this is applied to actual measurements. Numberings or thread title for this system is as follows for both the English numbering system and the metric:

Metric

First we will look at the metric system to see how it is defined, many students of spinning prefer this system over the English as it is easier to work the numbers mentally. But in the end it is due to personal preference.

  • The metric number expresses the thousands of meters per kilo of each cape, followed by the number of capes.
  • The metric system is the most common of all the systems described.
  • For example, a thread consisting of 2 ends of 60,000 m/kg each is expressed as Nm 60/2.
  • To know the footage that has a kilogram of thread, simply divide the footage of a cape by the number of ends that form it.
  • For example, a 60/2 would have 30 thousand m/kg and a 60/3 would have 20 thousand m/kg.

English Number

And now the English numbering system with the metric measurements included for comparison.

  • The definition is the number of 840-yard skeins (768.08 m) weighing 1 lb (English pound 451.59 g)
  • It is enough to know that you have to multiply by 1.7 to go from the English system to the metric.
  • This numbering has always been the usual for cotton.
  • For example the cotton yarn Ne 30/1, which is an Nm 50/1

Let Your Fantasy Lead Your Wheel

Fantasy threads are made in twists, combining different types of these into various forms. Fantasy threads are used in sweaters and woven dresses, for upholstery fabrics and for the decoration of fabrics for men's and women's suits. These threads are often made with mixtures of natural fibers and made by man. In any case, they are designed for a specific end use, and can be varied by numerous possible combinations of fibers, twists, dubbings and colors.

Types of fantasy threads:

Bouclé

It is one of the most used fantasy threads. Bouclé (French hairlock) is a type of fabric whose surface resembles rip binding. Bouclé is made partly or entirely from hair yarn and effect twirl, often using knots, bumps and slings. It is characterized by tight waves that are projected from the body of the thread at moderately regulated intervals. Bouclé yarn is used for woven sweaters, knitted and flat knit dresses and upholstery fabrics. The fabric can be used for dresses and coats as well. The ratiné yarn is similar in construction to the bouclé, but the waves are continuously twisted and are not spaced.

Chenille Thread/Stumpwork

Chenille is a term derived from a French word meaning caterpillar. It refers to a luxurious yarn especially soft, with hair coming out everywhere. Combed wool is usually mixed with other fibers. This type of chenille yarn is used for clothing made of knitted fabric for external use. In thicker threads, chenille is used to obtain prominent superficial effects on suits and coats. .

Another type of chenille yarn is often called chenille skin, used for chenille rugs.

Metallic Thread

The metal thread is a sheet of metal, aluminum, gold or silver, coated on both sides with a flat or colored plastic film and then cut into narrow ribbons. Plastic-coated metal wires do not become obscured. Metal threads have been produced by joining aluminum sheets between two layers of clear or transparent plastic film. This is the thread called the metal leaf type. A second class called.

Metallic type uses a layer of polyester film (mylar) treated with vaporized metal that is subsequently joined between two layers of transparent film.

Spotted/Mottled Threads

It is made by twisting many times in a short space one end of thread around another, causing some or elongated places (specks) on the surface of the thread. Sometimes a binder is used to hold the speck in place. Specks are usually spaced at varying intervals. Spotted threads are sometimes also called button threads.

Paper Thread

It is made by cutting and twisting wet paper to form individual thread ends, which are then woven into knitting work or in foot and weft fabrics like other threads. Since these yarns have strength they are suitable for making burlap, fiber mats, car seat covers, hats and handbags.

Plastic Thread

It is the coated yarn made of natural or synthetic fibers and that has been submerged in plastic that adheres forming a protective layer. It has the peculiarity of being highly resistant to tensile, elongation and the chemical agents that act on it, advantage that differentiates it from metal threads, very sensitive to oxidation and attack of acidic products.

Splashed

Splashed is the thread with an elongated button that has been twisted forcefully and attached to a base thread. A seed thread is a thread provided with very small buttons, often made from man-made threads and applied to a natural or dyed base thread.

The button is a soft, elongated knuckle. The thread that forms these buttons can be continuous or can be made by wick flakes inserted at intervals between tie-down threads.

Classifying Fibers

The spinning is based on mechanical procedures and unlimited length with unlimited raw materials.

These materials or elements can be divided into 3 classes:

  1. Short filaments (short fiber) such as cotton, wool etc.
  2. Intermediate length filaments such as hemp, jute and wool.
  3. Filaments of determined length such as silk.

In the process we will first work with machines called flap, card, which is reduced to cleaning the fiber. The following machines of the process to regularize the base of the fiber for further processing..

When talking about yarn or yarns, or even of simple fibers twisted with each other, we talk about the base material (this is important no matter what the desired output is) and since ancient times, it has been marketed based on its quality, with a measure of length, thickness and weight.

Cotton yarns, wool, silk, etc., even if they are apparently cylindrical there is more variation, and still lack a lot of what we have come to expect in modern life, uniformity, since it does not have a regular diameter, therefore its thickness cannot be determined as a wire, etc.

Where it turns out that it can only be based on length and weight.

The classification of the fibers are in two groups:

  1. Constant Weight System
  2. Constant Length System

When it is necessary to refer to the thickness of a yarn or thread it is clear that it is difficult measuring it due to the small size and by the irregularity due to the twisting and tension of the yarn especially in the natural fibers.

An indirect system of expressing thickness was then used and the concept of numbering and title arose.

In spinning systems there are several forms of holder or numbering of yarns whether the source material is cotton, wool or synthetic.

There are several methods for numbering threads. The coexistence of all of them is due to the inertia of the custom, since with some only of them would be sufficient.

Numbers that describe the characteristics of a thread are called the title, and must be preceded by the technique that was used.

Numbering systems are classified into two groups well differentiated by their opposing approaches: Direct Systems and Reverse Systems.

The Many Fibers of Spinin

The most enjoyable aspect of spinning is that you get to work with many different types of fiber. Each one brings with it its own properties that make it challenging to work with. Each one has its own unique character when it is completed.

Natural fibers, without exception, require several successive processes to obtain clean and uniform fiber, suitable for yarn. This short fiber, (a few centimeters), has a rough or twisted surface that facilitates its cohesion with similar fibers.

Natural fibers can be:

Of animal origin.

  • Wool
  • Silk
  • Mohair
  • Cashmere
  • Angora

Plant-based.

  • Cotton
  • Linen
  • Jute
  • Hemp

And artificial fibers.

Chemical fibers are obtained by extrusion: regenerated cellulose in the case of artificial fibers or synthetic polymers in the case of synthetic fibers. These fibers are long, i.e. they are already spun to be able to manufacture fabrics with them, but they can also be cut to spin them as if it were natural fiber.

The wool of the sheep is easily synthesized, as it is curled by nature, but can also spin the hair of other animals, such as yak, goat, angora rabbit, and alpaca, among others.

Know Your Yarn

Fiber yarn consists of transforming the (x) fiber into (y) yarn, this operation takes place when the different properties are utilized to obtain a desired result. This is done through addition of threads, when twisting several short fibers at once to bind them together and produce a continuous strand; when they are spun (twist) long filaments you get stronger threads, also called yarns.

The way the fibers are spun to produce yarn has a direct influence on the properties and appearance of the final product. The direction of spinning when producing yarn also influences the texture of the fabric.

Yarn with S torque or Z torque.

Natural fibers—except silk—are short; are processed to produce yarns with which fabrics will be manufactured. Nonwovens are produced directly from fiber. 'Chemical fibres', both artificial and synthetic, go through the yarn process during manufacture; this results in long, continuous filaments, which must be cut if they are to be mixed with natural fibers.

The yarn is done in several stages. The process of yarn manufacturing can be of two types: artisanal and industrial.