Tag: Reverse Systems

Reverse Systems

They express how much a certain thread weight measures when compared to other threads across the scale. They are called inverse just because the larger the number, the thinner the thread which seems illogical at first but is in fact simpler once you understand more of the finer points of spinning.

Also known as reverse or direct systems, it applies to fibers of limited length such as cotton, wool, etc.

The number is both higher and smaller is the diameter, in this weight system is fixed and the length is variable.

The formula is:

  • N'K L/ P
    • No. Number
    • Constant Ko
    • L. Length
    • P. Weight

Now we will look at how this is applied to actual measurements. Numberings or thread title for this system is as follows for both the English numbering system and the metric:

Metric

First we will look at the metric system to see how it is defined, many students of spinning prefer this system over the English as it is easier to work the numbers mentally. But in the end it is due to personal preference.

  • The metric number expresses the thousands of meters per kilo of each cape, followed by the number of capes.
  • The metric system is the most common of all the systems described.
  • For example, a thread consisting of 2 ends of 60,000 m/kg each is expressed as Nm 60/2.
  • To know the footage that has a kilogram of thread, simply divide the footage of a cape by the number of ends that form it.
  • For example, a 60/2 would have 30 thousand m/kg and a 60/3 would have 20 thousand m/kg.

English Number

And now the English numbering system with the metric measurements included for comparison.

  • The definition is the number of 840-yard skeins (768.08 m) weighing 1 lb (English pound 451.59 g)
  • It is enough to know that you have to multiply by 1.7 to go from the English system to the metric.
  • This numbering has always been the usual for cotton.
  • For example the cotton yarn Ne 30/1, which is an Nm 50/1

Numbering Principle For Threads

Spinning is one of the aspects of mankind that allowed us to achieve more than our ancestors. The spinning is based on mechanical procedures and unlimited length with unlimited raw materials.

These materials or elements can be divided into 3 classes:

  1. Short filaments (short fiber) such as cotton, wool etc.
  2. Intermediate length filaments such as hemp, jute and wool.
  3. Filaments of determined length such as silk.

In the process we will first work with machines called flap, card, which is reduced to cleaning the fiber and the following machines of the process to regularize.

When talking about yarns or yarns, or fibers twisted with each other, we talk about something material and since ancient times, it has been marketed based on its quality, with a measure of length, thickness and weight.

Cotton yarns, wool, silk, etc., even if they are apparently cylindrical, lack a lot to be, since it does not have a regular diameter, therefore its thickness cannot be determined as a wire, etc.

Where it turns out that it can only be based on length and weight.

The classification of the fibers are in two groups:

  1. Constant Weight System
  2. Constant Length System

When it is necessary to refer to the thickness of a yarn or yarn it is clear that it is shocked against the difficulty of measuring it due to the small size and by the irregularity due to the twisting and tension of the yarn especially in the natural fibers.

An indirect system of expressing thickness was then used and the concept of numbering and title arose.

In spinning systems there are several forms of holder or numbering of yarns whether cotton, wool or synthetic.

There are several methods for numbering threads. The coexistence of all of them is due to the inertia of the custom, since with some only of them would be sufficient.

Numbers that describe the characteristics of a thread are called the title, and must be preceded by the command prompt that was used.

Numbering systems are classified into two groups well differentiated by their opposing approaches: Direct Systems and Reverse Systems.